Enjoy this story of a group of women biking the Old Ghost Road over 2 days.
When we make the effort and take the time to go on a biking adventure, we want it to be an enjoyable experience. To help plan your adventure read about goRide’s experience riding the 85km Old Ghost Road, November 2017.
In terms of jaw dropping, awe inspiring multi-use trails in New Zealand. This track is one of, if not, THE best. Run by the Mokihiuni Lyell Backcountry Trust since 2008, it offers you 85km of singletrack riding. Visit the website at www.oldghostroad.org.nz to book huts (essential) and see up to date trail information. Also visit their facebook page “The Old Ghost Road“.
Where is it ?
Because of the slow steady 1200m elevation gain from the Lyell end, it is recommended, for bikers, that the track is tackled from Lyell. Lyell is found on State Highway 6 in the Upper Buller Gorge. It is 35km south of Murchison – the nearest town.
Several transport partners offer a shuttle relocation from Seddonville/Rough & Tumble Lodge, at the end of the trail, back to Lyell. Seddonville is 4km from the end of the Old Ghost Road track and Westport is another 50km to the south. From Westport it is another 62km to the Lyell Reserve where you started.
Buller Adventures – link
Hike n Bike Shuttle – link
Heaphy Bus Company /Trek Express – link
The Rough & Tumble Bush Lodge is right where the track ends and offers really well thought out accommodation, restaurant, cafe & view over the Mokihinui River… a nice treat at the end of an epic ride.
If completing the whole track is not an option because of the geographical locations of the start and finish consider starting and finishing at the Lyell Reserve end. It still makes for a great trip. From the Lyell end a great day trip can be had up to the Lyell Saddle Hut (12km one way, 24km return). Or if time and fitness permit an in & out adventure to Ghost Lake Hut (30km one way, 60km return).
The ride and is it doable for you?
The Old Ghost Road is 85km. It is suggested that you either complete this over a 2 or 3 day journey.
We have chosen to do it over a 3 day journey which includes 2 days on the trail, one day of travel. With multiple hut options along the track this could easily be ridden over 3 days. Remember you need to carry your own food, so the longer it takes you the more food you will need. Check out the facilities at the huts so you know what you need to carry.
DAY ONE – Travel, then Lyall Reserve to Ghost Lake Hut = 30 km– is it doable?
Half of the first day was spent traveling to the Lyall Reserve. From here the 30km journey is a steady climb gaining 1200m in elevation to the breathtaking top tracks that take you along very exposed singletrack with simply stunning views around every corner to Ghost Lake Hut perched high on the ridge edge.
Accommodation – Ghost Lake Hut
Several of the huts along the trail are category 1 meaning… cooking equipment, plates & utensils are supplied. This is great news in terms of not having to carry too much gear. The category 1 huts are… Lyell Saddle Hut, Ghost Lake Hut, Stern Valley Hut and Specimen Point Hut – is it doable, can you carry what you need to take?
DAY TWO – Ghost Lake Hut to Rough & Tumble Lodge 55km.
This lodge is right at the end of the track – Seddonville is a further 4km (Hotel & campground options)
The second day of riding is incredibly varied and utterly unique. The early morning get away is down some very exposed high in the sky switchbacks – not for unskilled riders – most of our group chose to walk these corners. After this wake up call, there are over 300 steps to carry your bike down. The aptly named Skyline Steps.
Into the Graveyard for a solid climb on tired legs. Awesome flowing downhill single track that eventually meets the river.
DAY THREE – Seddonville to home, Travel Day
Unfortunately the end of this track is in a very remote location making your third day a travel day. We were picked up and returned to our vehicles at Lyell (2hrs). Swapping bikes & gear at Lyell Historic Reserve/Carpark (1hr), Lyell to Nelson via van (2hrs) including lunch stop.
What skills will you need to do this ride? The Old Ghost Road is definitely a mountain bike track – it’s rated grade 4, with two grade 4-5 sections. There are several long grinding climbs, amazingly narrow ridgeline tracks, lots of steps to contend with and technical descents to deal with. A few sections require you to dismount and push your bike between gates otherwise it’s up to your skill level but do expect to be carrying and pushing your bike through sections. This is a multi use, two way track so expect to come across trampers – Is it doable?
What level of fitness will you need to do this ride? I rode The Old Ghost Road with a group of women with really varied mountain biking experience which showed me that maybe life is too short to say no that’s too hard for me. Fitness & food are key components in being able to enjoy your experience. Lack of both means tiredness and this type of track is unforgiving of tired riders – Is it doable?
How could the weather effect the success of your journey? The weather on this trail can be unpredictable so you need to prepare for all conditions. You are going through an alpine area that has been known to experience snow in summer. The West Coast is known as a high rain fall area of NZ. Two sources recommended by the Mokihiuni-Lyell BackCountry Trust are James McGregor’s MetVUW (the South Island wind and precipitation charts are particularly useful) and the Metservice’s mountains and rural forecasts. Because of all this weather we recommend a front mud guard – Is it doable?
What to consider to feel comfortable and safe when riding the The Old Ghost Road
Our comfort and safety tips for the Old Ghost Road
- The Old Ghost Road is a back country track so you need to be prepared for all types of weather conditions. You are likely to encounter wet and cold conditions at any time of the year.
- You are going to be riding on undulating terrain with many obstacles, so mountain bikes are ideal. Our group all had full suspension mountain bikes
- You will be on the bike for a number of hours each day, for consecutive days. The surface is bumpy, being comfortable on the bike is a MUST. Make sure you are comfortable on your bike seat, at your handlebars and on the pedals.
Thule Carrier with rear dry bag #1 and tie downs – clothes and food
Backpack (Camelbak low rider) – warm top, snacks
Drink bottle cage – drink bottle carrying water
Seat tool bag – carrying tools/tube and second spare tube taped to the frame
Dry bag #2 – tie downs used to attach to handlebars – sleeping bag, jacket.
Enjoy the experience and have fun
Riding the Old Ghost Road and experiencing its history and diversity is so memorable. The highlight would be the scenery. At times it seems like every corner gives you another view better than the last. Even when the last view left you speechless. This is truely a track to stop often and enjoy, don’t get caught up in getting to your hut.
If you choose the challenge of The Old Ghost Road you will not be disappointed this track is full of SMILE moments. Promise us you will make it a truly memorable experience by being as prepared as you can be!
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